The Exposure Triangle for Cinema
Updated
T-stop, shutter angle, ISO or exposure index, and ND: how each one moves exposure in stops, what else it changes, and the order a camera team sets them in.
- Exposure
- T-Stop
- Shutter Angle
- ND
On this page
Four controls, not three
The stills version of the exposure triangle has three corners: aperture, shutter speed and ISO. A cine camera adds a fourth that does most of the work, the ND filter, and each of the other three behaves a little differently. The iris is marked in T-stops, the shutter is an angle tied to the frame rate, and on most cinema cameras ISO is an exposure index (EI) that moves the picture's latitude rather than adding gain.
All four move exposure in the same unit, the stop, so they can be traded against one another. What differs is the side effect: depth of field for the iris, motion blur for the shutter, noise and highlight room for EI, and nothing at all for a good ND. That is why a camera team rarely uses the triangle freely. The frame rate and shutter are set by the look, the stop by the focus, and ND and lighting absorb whatever is left.
Stops: the common unit
One stop is a factor of two in light. Every control has its own scale, but each scale can be turned into stops, and that is what lets you swap one for another.
| Control | One stop more light | One stop less light | Also changes |
|---|---|---|---|
| T-stop | Open by √2 (T4 → T2.8) | Close by √2 (T2.8 → T4) | Depth of field |
| Shutter angle | Double it (90° → 180°) | Halve it (180° → 90°) | Motion blur |
| ISO / EI | Double it (400 → 800) | Halve it (800 → 400) | Noise and where the latitude sits |
| ND filter | Remove ND 0.3 | Add ND 0.3 | Nothing, with a good filter |
Change = log₂(t₂ ÷ t₁) + log₂(EI₂ ÷ EI₁) − 2 × log₂(T₂ ÷ T₁) − ND density ÷ 0.3The total change in picture brightness, in stops, when you change any of the four. A result of zero means the exposure has not moved. The iris term is doubled because light through the lens goes with the square of the stop number.
Where
- t
- Exposure time: shutter angle ÷ (360 × frame rate)(s)
- EI
- ISO or exposure index
- T
- T-stop
- ND density
- Density of ND added (0.3 per stop)
Example: Open from T4 to T2.8 and drop from EI 800 to EI 400
- Calculation:
- −2 × log₂(2.8 ÷ 4) + log₂(400 ÷ 800) = +1.03 − 1
- Result:
- About 0: the exposure is the same, with less depth of field and a different split of latitude
T-stop and the third-stop series
An f-number is the focal length divided by the entrance pupil. A T-stop is the same number corrected for the light the glass loses, so a set of cine primes all give the same exposure at the same marking. Use the T-stop for exposure and the f-number for depth of field; the Cinema Calculations Handbook has the conversion. Light meters read in f-numbers, and you set that number on the T-scale.
Each full stop multiplies the number by √2 (about 1.41). Cine lenses and meters work in thirds, each a factor of 2^(1/6), about 1.12. The marked values are rounded versions of those powers of two.
Full and third stops, T1 to T32
| Full stop | +⅓ stop | +⅔ stop |
|---|---|---|
| T1 | T1.1 | T1.3 |
| T1.4 | T1.6 | T1.8 |
| T2 | T2.2 | T2.5 |
| T2.8 | T3.2 | T3.5 |
| T4 | T4.5 | T5 |
| T5.6 | T6.3 | T7.1 |
| T8 | T9 | T10 |
| T11 | T13 | T14 |
| T16 | T18 | T20 |
| T22 | T25 | T29 |
| T32 |
The marked numbers are conventions, not exact values: T3.5 is 3.56 worked out, and T11 is 11.31. The differences are a few hundredths of a stop, which no meter or monitor will show.
Shutter angle
The shutter angle sets the exposure time as a fraction of the frame interval: time = angle ÷ (360 × frame rate). At 24 fps a 180° shutter gives 1/48 second. Halving the angle to 90° costs one stop and makes motion crisper and more staccato; opening to 360° gains one stop and smears it. That change in motion blur is why the shutter is usually chosen for the look and left alone.
No digital camera reaches a full 360°: the ALEXA 35, for example, runs from 5.0° to 356°. Two other things limit the shutter: the frame rate, because a faster rate shortens every exposure, and the mains frequency, because some angles make lights flicker. The shutter angle guide has the conversion charts and the flicker-free angles for 50 Hz and 60 Hz.
ISO and exposure index
On a stills camera, raising ISO amplifies the signal. On most cinema cameras shooting log or raw, the ISO setting is an exposure index: a rating that tells the camera, and the light meter, how bright to make middle gray. The sensor does not become more sensitive.
ARRI documents this. On earlier ALEXAs such as the Mini and Mini LF, which record LogC3, each EI has its own Log C curve, and every curve places 18% gray at the same code value (0.391, which is 400 of 1023 in 10-bit). The ALEXA 35's LogC4 uses one curve for every EI, with 18% gray at 0.2784; the EI changes only a gain applied before the curve. On both, rating the camera one stop higher means the meter gives you one stop less light on the sensor for the same picture brightness, and the sensor then holds one stop more highlight detail above middle gray, with one stop less below it and more visible noise. Rating it lower does the reverse. In ARRIRAW the EI is stored in the file header as metadata, so it can be changed in post. The ALEXA 35 offers EI 160 to 6400 in thirds.
ND: exposure with no side effects
A neutral density filter cuts the same fraction of light at every wavelength. It is the only exposure control that changes nothing else in the picture, which is why it does most of the work: the stop holds the depth of field, the shutter holds the motion, and ND takes up the rest. Each 0.3 of density is one stop.
Many cinema cameras have ND built in. The ALEXA 35's motorized filter has four positions: clear, 0.6, 1.2 and 1.8 (two, four and six stops). Anything past that, or a one-stop step in between, goes in the matte box. The ND filter guide covers density, filter factors, stacking and the full chart.
The order to set them on set
- Frame rate. Fixed by the project (24, 25 or 30) or by the slow-motion factor you need.
- Shutter angle. 180° unless the look calls for something else, or the lights need a flicker-free angle.
- EI. The camera's recommended rating, moved up or down for where you want the latitude.
- T-stop. Chosen for depth of field and for where the lens looks best.
- ND and lighting. Whatever the first four leave over: ND to cut light, more light (or a wider stop) to add it.
Case study
Overcast exterior at T2.8
Scenario
A 24 fps drama shooting a heavily overcast exterior on an ALEXA 35 at 180° and EI 800. The DP wants T2.8 for a shallow background.
Challenge
An incident reading at EI 800 and 1/48 second gives f/16 (about EV₁₀₀ 10.6). How much ND does T2.8 need, and what happens when the cloud thickens and takes another stop off?
Solution
- Work out the gap between the meter reading and the stop you want, in stops.
- Convert stops to density at 0.3 per stop.
- Split the density between the internal filter and the matte box.
- When the light drops by a stop, take out a stop of ND rather than touching the iris.
The numbers
Stops = 2 × log₂(16 ÷ 2.8) = 5.03Density = 5 × 0.3 = ND 1.5Internal ND 1.2 + ND 0.3 in the matte box = 1.5Thicker cloud, −1 stop: pull the ND 0.3, keep T2.8
Result
ND 1.5 holds T2.8 under the overcast; pulling the external ND 0.3 covers the darker cloud without changing the depth of field.
Key takeaways
- Meter at the camera's EI and its real exposure time.
- In full sun the same setup needs about nine stops, ND 2.7: the EV chart guide works it through.
- Keep a one-stop filter outside the camera for quick changes when the internal steps are two stops apart.
Working it out in CineMath
CineMath's Exposure calculator takes your current T-stop, shutter angle and ISO and a change in stops, and gives four separate fixes: change the iris, the shutter, the ISO, or the ND. Each one absorbs the whole change on its own, so you pick one. A positive change means more light has arrived (the sun came out) and has to be cut; a negative one means light was lost. The EV Change field takes fractions such as +1/3 or −2/3. The free exposure calculator does the same in your browser.
This describes CineMath 1.3, the next update. Until it reaches the App Store, the version there is 1.2.1, and the Exposure screen differs in places.
From T2.8, 180°, ISO 800
| Change | T-stop | Shutter | ISO | ND |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| +1 | T4 | 90° | 400 | Add ND 0.3 (ND2) |
| +2 | T5.6 | 45° | 200 | Add ND 0.6 (ND4) |
| +⅓ | T3.2 (exact T3.14) | 142.9° | 635 | Add ND 0.10 (nearest ND 0.3 · ND2) |
| +1.5 | T4.5 (exact T4.71) | 63.64° | 282.8 | Add ND 0.45 (nearest ND 0.6 · ND4) |
| −1 | T2 | 360° | 1600 | Remove ND 0.3 (ND2) |
The T-stop is rounded to the nearest third-stop marking, with the exact value alongside when the two differ. The app warns when a fix is not practical: the −1 row's 360° shutter is outside the 1–358° it accepts, an ISO outside 50–25,600 or a stop outside T1–T32 is flagged, and removing ND assumes a filter is in.
Next steps
- Try a change in stops against your own settings in the free exposure calculator, in your browser.
- Convert shutter angles to shutter speeds and find flicker-free settings in the shutter angle guide.
- Read ND markings in density, stops or filter factor with the ND filter chart.
- Turn a stills meter's EV reading into a T-stop with the EV chart.
- Check what the stop you chose does to focus with the Depth of Field calculator.
The Exposure calculator is free in CineMath on iPhone, iPad and Mac, so the next time the light changes you can see all four fixes at once.
Calculators for this guide
- Exposure CalculatorEnter a stop change and see the iris, shutter angle, ISO or ND that compensates for it.
- Depth of Field CalculatorNear and far focus limits, hyperfocal distance, and the stop that holds two subjects in focus.
- Speed Change CalculatorPlayback speed and running-time change when footage plays at a different frame rate.